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Any of you Dawgs good at fixing things? Update SUCCESS!
Posted on 7/31/23 at 10:24 pm
Posted on 7/31/23 at 10:24 pm
First of all…for any of you honest to God mechanics don’t call me a pussy…fixing engines is not my thing but I do enjoy messing around with them. .
I’ve been a tinkerer since a college job rebuilding scratch and dent appliances. Since then I’ve enjoyed tinkering with anything mechanical…mostly weed eaters and yard equipment … with occasional appliance repair. I’m about 80% on small engine stuff….obviously fixing appliances is a breeze. My wife calls me “handy”.
The 16 year old JD mowers started firing and dying after I ran it out of gas so my carb is fricked. Rather than send it to the local JD dealer and pay $600 for a carb rebuild and fuel system flush that will take a month I’m replacing it with an OEM Briggs carb myself. I didn’t want to use the $30 China shite on Amazon so I paid for the real deal.
I briefly considered rebuilding it but with all of the gaskets, springs, little weird pieces that fall out and you don’t know where they go….I decided to get the replacement. I’ll mess around with a $150 weed eater but the mower will cost $3k to replace
So I’m already in for the new carb and now have the fear that after fricking with this thing all weekend I’m going to put it all back together and it still won’t fire up…so I’ll end up spending the same amount plus the new carb. Part arrived today…showtime tomorrow or Wed.
Thought I’d share for no good reason. Any tips before I cross the rubicon?
I’ve been a tinkerer since a college job rebuilding scratch and dent appliances. Since then I’ve enjoyed tinkering with anything mechanical…mostly weed eaters and yard equipment … with occasional appliance repair. I’m about 80% on small engine stuff….obviously fixing appliances is a breeze. My wife calls me “handy”.
The 16 year old JD mowers started firing and dying after I ran it out of gas so my carb is fricked. Rather than send it to the local JD dealer and pay $600 for a carb rebuild and fuel system flush that will take a month I’m replacing it with an OEM Briggs carb myself. I didn’t want to use the $30 China shite on Amazon so I paid for the real deal.
I briefly considered rebuilding it but with all of the gaskets, springs, little weird pieces that fall out and you don’t know where they go….I decided to get the replacement. I’ll mess around with a $150 weed eater but the mower will cost $3k to replace
So I’m already in for the new carb and now have the fear that after fricking with this thing all weekend I’m going to put it all back together and it still won’t fire up…so I’ll end up spending the same amount plus the new carb. Part arrived today…showtime tomorrow or Wed.
Thought I’d share for no good reason. Any tips before I cross the rubicon?
This post was edited on 8/2/23 at 5:12 pm
2
Posted on 7/31/23 at 11:00 pm to SquatchDawg
Check YouTube for step by step video by an expert.
Posted on 7/31/23 at 11:11 pm to AlaCowboy
I’ve watched several and it’s clear that some are experts and some are morons.
There’s a metal baffler that goes in between two gaskets on one side and it was on the old carb so I made sure I set the new one up the same way. The only diagram provided on the new Briggs was about this. One guy on YouTube had the same thing and tossed it because he didn’t know what it was for and why he had two gaskets.
His shite isn’t going to work right.
There’s a metal baffler that goes in between two gaskets on one side and it was on the old carb so I made sure I set the new one up the same way. The only diagram provided on the new Briggs was about this. One guy on YouTube had the same thing and tossed it because he didn’t know what it was for and why he had two gaskets.
His shite isn’t going to work right.
Posted on 8/1/23 at 5:59 am to SquatchDawg
How did you determine the carb was bad from running out of fuel? Not sure I agree that the carb was the issue. If it was an electric fuel pump you ran dry, than yes I could see that. But a carb I would think you could have put more gas in it, primed it and if nothing else was wrong it would have ran.
Did you check spark?
Did you check spark?
Posted on 8/1/23 at 8:49 am to bbqdawg
I don’t think the carb is bad either. What size engine is it?
Posted on 8/1/23 at 8:55 am to bbqdawg
I wasn’t clear in the OP.
I ran it out of fuel a week ago. Refueled it and it worked fine for an hour while I finished the yard. A week later, it’ll start under full choke and then die in about two seconds, restart and die… and then won’t restart. It feels like something’s getting sucked into the fuel flow and closing it off.
I checked the fuel flow by pulling the line off the carb and turning it over. Plugs are new. But you’re right, it could be something totally different and I just bought a new carb for no reason.
It’s a 22hp Briggs.
I ran it out of fuel a week ago. Refueled it and it worked fine for an hour while I finished the yard. A week later, it’ll start under full choke and then die in about two seconds, restart and die… and then won’t restart. It feels like something’s getting sucked into the fuel flow and closing it off.
I checked the fuel flow by pulling the line off the carb and turning it over. Plugs are new. But you’re right, it could be something totally different and I just bought a new carb for no reason.
It’s a 22hp Briggs.
This post was edited on 8/1/23 at 9:08 am
Posted on 8/1/23 at 9:18 am to SquatchDawg
Sounds like you have trash in the carb somewhere. Get a can of carb cleaner and blow the jets out and the fill tube going to the bowl. You may be able to send that expensive carb back.
I rebuild the vanguard horizontal shaft engines for mud boat motors but I never use the stock carb I always switch to a Mikuni setup for performance. The Briggs carbs are a PITA.
Sounds like with a 22 you have a vertical shaft intek motor?
I rebuild the vanguard horizontal shaft engines for mud boat motors but I never use the stock carb I always switch to a Mikuni setup for performance. The Briggs carbs are a PITA.
Sounds like with a 22 you have a vertical shaft intek motor?
Posted on 8/1/23 at 9:44 am to Griffindawg
quote:
The Briggs carbs are a PITA. Sounds like with a 22 you have a vertical shaft intek motor?
I have no idea. The carb is part of an assembly that is easy to remove so I pulled it and was going to remove the bowl and try to shoot carb cleaner everywhere I could without taking the whole thing apart but the screws were frozen and really easy to strip. They were already boogered up a little bit from when I had it serviced 10+ years ago.
Why would you use shitty screws on something like that?
I’ve already attached the new carb in the assembly and got my linkages right so I went to work on the old one because at this point it doesn’t matter if I mess the old one up. I managed to get the bowl off and inside there were two tiny metal inlet/outlet (?) valves that were out of their holes just laying in the tube. I don’t know if this was the problem or if they came out while I was messing with it. Also, a tiny metal piece that obviously had a purpose in the bowl that I have no idea where it belongs. The gaskets were completely sealed and torn when it removed them so at a minimum I’d have needed those.
All of the Amazon reviews for other carbs said beware for my model because the choke linkage on the Chinese stuff didn’t line up right and you had to drill/modify them to get them to work. That’s why I paid for the OEM. I don’t mind spending the money if it works when I put it back together.
Posted on 8/1/23 at 9:49 am to SquatchDawg
Sounds like the jets worked their way out and fell out. Yeah that carb was fricked.
When I have something where the carb assembly is all one piece I always just order the $30 Ching Chong model off Amazon and swap it. It’s all pretty straight forward. I always take pictures of the linkage on the old one before I take it off though.
When I have something where the carb assembly is all one piece I always just order the $30 Ching Chong model off Amazon and swap it. It’s all pretty straight forward. I always take pictures of the linkage on the old one before I take it off though.
Posted on 8/1/23 at 10:02 am to Griffindawg
Sounds like I should’ve come to you earlier as I may have been able to pop those in and fixed the problem…or screwed it all up by taking it apart.
New carb
Also, WTF is this and where does it go?
No matter how careful I am there’s always some spring, part or gasket that is a bitch to figure out. Also, I probably could’ve removed the linkage from the old one and put it on the Chinese version but without holding and trying it I had no idea if it would work and I’d be back to square one with a $30 boat anchor that I can’t return.
New carb
Also, WTF is this and where does it go?
No matter how careful I am there’s always some spring, part or gasket that is a bitch to figure out. Also, I probably could’ve removed the linkage from the old one and put it on the Chinese version but without holding and trying it I had no idea if it would work and I’d be back to square one with a $30 boat anchor that I can’t return.
This post was edited on 8/1/23 at 10:14 am
Posted on 8/1/23 at 10:35 am to SquatchDawg
That piece is your needle valve it sits in the needle seat where the fuel comes into the bowl. That’s what rides on the float tab and when the bowl is full it pushes that up in the seat and closes it off so it doesn’t flood.
Posted on 8/1/23 at 10:46 am to Griffindawg
I hate those Briggs carbs tho. That’s why I do these HSR 42 carbs. I pull the Briggs carb off and throw them in a pile on my work bench. I’m also running shaved/ported heads and performance cams in my motors so I need more air and fuel. 
Posted on 8/1/23 at 11:10 am to Griffindawg
Awesome…I know where to come next time. I wish I was better at this stuff which is why I do it…but there’s definitely a lot of trial and error involved. I’ll let you know if it works.
Damned needle valve…
Damned needle valve…
Posted on 8/1/23 at 2:04 pm to SquatchDawg
Just making sure you change the fuel filter while doing all this carb work. May be a good idea to look inside the old filter and make sure your fuel lines are not breaking down internally. Ethanol is not good for a lot of small engines, and older engines.
Posted on 8/1/23 at 2:31 pm to bbqdawg
I have one ready to go. I’ve run ethanol free gas in it as long as I can remember…but definitely will change since I sucked who knows what into the line when it ran out.
Posted on 8/1/23 at 9:19 pm to SquatchDawg
bbqdawg with wisdom. I once went through all the carb shite, all cleaned out and rebuilt, and got fricked immediately because the diaphram pump and fuel lines were fricked. Had to replace all that and then redo the carb again.
I don't know your engine, is it 2 stroke with an oil mix or just straight gas?
I don't know your engine, is it 2 stroke with an oil mix or just straight gas?
Posted on 8/2/23 at 8:34 am to deeprig9
Straight gas and I’ve always run ethanol free gas in it.
Today should be go day on seeing if the new carb works. Since I had it taken the mower apart, I went ahead and pulled the mower deck to change the blades, grease the spindles and prime/paint some rusted areas while I was waiting on parts. Also had some rust on the mower itself I had to take care of. Got all of that primed/painted and put back together yesterday.
I’m running a half assed mower garage and body shop under my deck in the back yard.
Today should be go day on seeing if the new carb works. Since I had it taken the mower apart, I went ahead and pulled the mower deck to change the blades, grease the spindles and prime/paint some rusted areas while I was waiting on parts. Also had some rust on the mower itself I had to take care of. Got all of that primed/painted and put back together yesterday.
I’m running a half assed mower garage and body shop under my deck in the back yard.
Posted on 8/2/23 at 11:45 am to SquatchDawg
Def get some carb cleaner and look up your particular model on YouTube. Had the same issue with a ride on a couple of years ago that I failed to winterize properly. Carb cleaner and a couple of YouTube videos later and I was able to identify where the blockage was (it was a tiny opening in the needle or float IIRC and I had to disassemble to get to it) but sure enough that’s what it was
This post was edited on 8/2/23 at 11:47 am
Posted on 8/2/23 at 5:14 pm to SquatchDawg
Put the new carb assembly in, hooked everything up and it fired up first shot….idle and full throttle work fine….actually a little more peppy than before. Finished the service and after I reattach the mower deck it’ll be good to go.
Thank God I didn’t finish it off.
Thank God I didn’t finish it off.
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