subMOA

My truck came with factory 20s.....Ram 2500. Rode like absolute dogshit.

Sad part is that people with Super Duty's and HD GM's claimed "man, this truck rides great"

As another poster stated, suspension is a key factor....but tire sidewall height plays a huge part as well.

Had Thuren cook me up some new coil springs and their tuning for Fox shocks. Took a lot of the compression and weird rebound issues out of the truck, almost all of the stock suspension's porpoising on the elevated parts of Hwy. 90 were eilminated.

But, the truck still rode harsh.

I got a set of OEM 17s from a Ram Power Wagon that was a SEMA build and the difference it astounding.

Tire sidewall height will make a difference, but in your case, I don't know that 20s are going to do it for you.

I own 8 from 1500 to 5500. Just put a new 5500 in the fleet last week.

Because of our experience, employees own 3 more.

My daily is a 2023 (Bought in Nov, so could be a ‘24 to give you an idea of the miles we put on) 2500 with 90,000 miles. Zero issues.

We run these trucks hard.

Unless something drastic happens, we will continue to run Ram.

I can’t imagine any brand being any better.

Please explain how a 3.3L gas V6 is "essentially a tractor motor"

When you give it all to God, it is truly amazing!

Southern Angler- Austin Rivault
Geaux Fishing- Trampus Wagoner

Both of those guys (Southern Angler has a few boats)- are out of Grand Isle Marina and have slips near me- they always catch fish and are good dudes.

It’s like 85%, last time I looked (this weekend- cause I sure as hell couldn’t go offshore)….

My guess is that they want to keep it open thru the end of the month to coincide with AJ season.

I’d love to make at least one more trip.

We had a great year- went out about 20 times, caught our limit each and every time, except once, for Tarpon- when my kid got seasick after drinking a C4 and eating a bag of gummy worms on the way out….he puked, we still fished, but I felt bad for him, so we went back in about 1/2 full.

Close- that is Alphonse Marechal, the oldest of the 4 Marechals that engraved at FN.

I'm getting a little knowledge on this.....it's kinda like a fun treasure hunt.

I buy a handful of trucks every year- for my company. Here’s what I have found that works best:

Go to Cars.com and sort by lowest price.

Some prices are absolutely unrealistic and are just there to get you to call.

But then you’ll see a baseline trend for the model you want.

Start calling or emailing (I like email or text actually) and ask for the dealer(s) best price that are within striking distance of you. Be upfront. “I have 5 dealers that I want to work with and I’m asking all of y’all for quotes”

You’ll find a local dealer can get pretty close to the Cars.com price.

If you are financing- get that sorted out BEFORE you go to the dealership.

Car dealers make money by adding as much to the interest rate as they can. The finance offer is a whole profit center for them. You do not need rim insurance.

If that doesn’t work in your favor, call the online dealers- they will be glad to FedEx the paperwork to you and have a local notary come to get everything signed at your home or office. Then they will just ship the car to you.

Modern cars are very reliable. You don’t need to see it in person before you buy. A big dealer- like those in Dallas- have zero interest in screwing you on a new car.

I have a 40 year old McKee Craft with the original aluminum tanks.

I have a 42 year old Peterbilt with the original aluminum tanks.

I have a 20 year old Pursuit with the original aluminum tank.

There is always a chance that if a weld fatigues or of galvanic corrosion because someone didn’t maintain their anodes but I would much rather a (IMO) an aluminum tank(s) that could be repaired if need be vs. some impossibly shaped rotomolded poly tank that can fatigue and fail probably just as easy as a welded tank.

Why didn’t your “mechanic” time it right?

Because surely, your “mechanic” has tested the injectors, so you know they are right.