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OT - Insulating a bonus room over garage
Posted on 8/16/19 at 10:11 am
Posted on 8/16/19 at 10:11 am
Question for anyone with knowledge on the subject.....but for brevity, should I opt for spray foam insulation when completing this room or go with the code standard fiberglass?
I know the easy answer is "duh, yeah." That said, is there a reason NOT to do it that way? Likely will be heated/cooled with a 2.5 ton minisplit (which should already more than adequate for the space).
I know the easy answer is "duh, yeah." That said, is there a reason NOT to do it that way? Likely will be heated/cooled with a 2.5 ton minisplit (which should already more than adequate for the space).
6
Posted on 8/16/19 at 10:25 am to S1C EM
I bet this is against hoa policy.
Sorry bruh. Couldn't help myself. As far as actual contribution to the topic. I got nothing.
Sorry bruh. Couldn't help myself. As far as actual contribution to the topic. I got nothing.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 10:32 am to S1C EM
You renting out an upstairs room?
Posted on 8/16/19 at 10:43 am to S1C EM
If it’s going to be inspected I’d check the codes. If not then up to you.
If you want an estimate on the mini split message me. I own a hvac company out of Conyers but we go most places.
If you want an estimate on the mini split message me. I own a hvac company out of Conyers but we go most places.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 12:17 pm to S1C EM
Spray foam all the way. Will be more expensive but does a much better job at temperature control with the outside air. I am looking at getting my entire attic done but it’s like 7000. Payback from energy savings about 7-9 years
Posted on 8/16/19 at 12:48 pm to retooc
quote:
I bet this is against hoa policy.
I'm not gonna paint it fuchsia!
quote:
Sorry bruh. Couldn't help myself. As far as actual contribution to the topic. I got nothing.
I don't blame you....I got a chuckle out of this as soon as I saw it.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 12:49 pm to SneakyWaff1es
quote:
You renting out an upstairs room?
Maybe. If she's hot.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 12:50 pm to claydawg09
quote:
If it’s going to be inspected I’d check the codes. If not then up to you.
If you want an estimate on the mini split message me. I own a hvac company out of Conyers but we go most places.
I'm having a reputable contractor do the work and they definitely do it by code. They priced in the minisplit, but I'd be happy to shop you once I have the specifics of the unit. Right now, all I know is it would be a Mitsubishi 2.5 ton.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 12:51 pm to DawgCountry
quote:
Spray foam all the way. Will be more expensive but does a much better job at temperature control with the outside air.
That's what I figured. And it's a lot easier to do it right this time around......I don't want any horror story with a room that's essentially unusable because the temp can't be consistently regulated.
quote:
I am looking at getting my entire attic done but it’s like 7000. Payback from energy savings about 7-9 years
The difference between doing the fiberglass and the spray foam is roughly $3,500, so I would guess we're in the same ballpark. I've got a lot more attic that isn't in that space. I have no interest in doing all of it, at least not now.
This post was edited on 8/16/19 at 1:00 pm
Posted on 8/16/19 at 2:29 pm to S1C EM
I would do standard insulation personally. Foam has its place but not there.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 3:25 pm to lewis and herschel
quote:
I would do standard insulation personally. Foam has its place but not there.
Can you expound on that? I would be interested to know the disadvantages.
Thanks!
Posted on 8/16/19 at 3:58 pm to S1C EM
What is the point in spray if the balance of the house is not foam.
A house almost needs to be built with foam in mind to allow for proper ventilation, drainage, and evaporation. Not to mention it's a huge pain if you have to dig into it for wiring or plumbing issues.
A house almost needs to be built with foam in mind to allow for proper ventilation, drainage, and evaporation. Not to mention it's a huge pain if you have to dig into it for wiring or plumbing issues.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 4:04 pm to lewis and herschel
quote:
What is the point in spray if the balance of the house is not foam.
Well, I'd think the main difference is that the space over the garage is very different from the rest of the house, i.e., it's getting sun and ambient heat directly from three sides AND below. Fiberglass insulation would, presumably, allow hot air to seep into the air pockets between its fibers and heat the room to a greater degree than any other other room in the house. Foam eliminates the "airspace" around the envelope of the room.
quote:
A house almost needs to be built with foam in mind to allow for proper ventilation, drainage, and evaporation. Not to mention it's a huge pain if you have to dig into it for wiring or plumbing issues.
I think all of this is fair. What kind of ventilation problems could sealing it up cause?
Posted on 8/16/19 at 4:30 pm to S1C EM
If moisture gets trapped between the roof and the foam it's a problem. It may conceal a roof leak for a long time. Roofs are meant to be ventilated so natural moisture can evaporate.
I like foam, just think it is something you decide on in preconstruction and plan accordingly. There is open cell and closed cell as well. Which if planned right, closed cell foam is the rolls Royce of foam and would be my choice in very cold climates.
I like foam, just think it is something you decide on in preconstruction and plan accordingly. There is open cell and closed cell as well. Which if planned right, closed cell foam is the rolls Royce of foam and would be my choice in very cold climates.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 4:40 pm to S1C EM
quote:
I think all of this is fair. What kind of ventilation problems could sealing it up cause?
A roof that is not ventilated will bake off (curl,etc).
A roof is vented in 2 ways:
1. Soffit vents under the eaves
2. Ridge vents (or gable end vents in older homes)
Cold air is sucked in from the soffit vents and as hot air rises it is released through the high point (typically a ridge vent these days).
That air must travel freely from soffit to ridge. Foam does not allow for that as well as fiberglass does.
Also, people talk about building codes as if they're a holy grail; they are not, they are minimally acceptable standards. Therefore, to save energy costs maximize R value according to the space you have.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 5:19 pm to S1C EM
Attached or detached? If attached you can look at just upgrading your existing hvac to accommodate the additional sq ft, especially if existing system is aged.
Posted on 8/16/19 at 7:20 pm to RhodeDawg
quote:
Cold air is sucked in from the soffit vents and as hot air rises it is released through the high point (typically a ridge vent these days).
That air must travel freely from soffit to ridge. Foam does not allow for that as well as fiberglass does.
Also, people talk about building codes as if they're a holy grail; they are not, they are minimally acceptable standards. Therefore, to save energy costs maximize R value according to the space you have.
You and and Lewis have provided some really good points. I think I may have to follow the advice.
As for the code being “minimum acceptable,” that was what I was thinking. So, in layman's terms, what should I be asking the contractor to install?
Posted on 8/16/19 at 7:26 pm to deeprig9
quote:
Attached or detached? If attached you can look at just upgrading your existing hvac to accommodate the additional sq ft, especially if existing system is aged.
It’s attached. This was my original thought, too. My systems are 21-year-old Trane units. My original plan was to have the ductwork run into the new space (easily done) and upgrade the upstairs unit, but the more I read, the more it seemed the mini split was the preferred option. I would really prefer to connect it to the existing system; but, I worry what happens if it doesn’t work? It’ll be an expensive fix. Plus, old as the original units are, they’re running like champs. Everything I see says the units being built today aren’t as good for the long haul, so I really want to get every bit of use I can out of them.
Posted on 8/18/19 at 10:02 pm to S1C EM
quote:
My systems are 21-year-old Trane units.
A new unit will be so much more energy efficient. I upgraded my old heat pump 9 years ago and my average heating/cooling bill dropped over 30%. Talk to your HVAC contractor to get the best unit for your needs.
Posted on 8/19/19 at 8:27 am to AlaCowboy
quote:
A new unit will be so much more energy efficient. I upgraded my old heat pump 9 years ago and my average heating/cooling bill dropped over 30%. Talk to your HVAC contractor to get the best unit for your needs.
I'm sure you're right. I just hate to pull these old tanks and get pieces of junk that are good for ten years, best case. These may not be efficient (hard to judge without some numbers to compare), but my energy bill is actually pretty damn good considering that I keep the house set to 77 during the day and 75 at night. These units are keeping both up and downstairs at temp without any issues and my power bill is lower than it was when I was in a smaller home with a brand new system. I'm just not 100% convinced on the new "high efficiency" stuff. I'm going to look into making the switch though.
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